What happens when a creative genius like Virgil Abloh stares into the cosmos and decides to take sneakers to an astral level? Well, we don’t have a full set of astrology charts here, but we do know he stirred up the sneaker world with “The Ten” collection. Picture this: it’s 2017, and Abloh doesn’t just redesign kicks, he flips the script on collaboration itself, giving us a partnership with Jordan Brand that’s so significant you’d think it was written in the stars! Talk about a cosmic impact—his work has made waves with iconic designs that straddle the line between absurdity and cultural landmark. From the initial jaw-dropping AJ1 “Chicago” to quieter, more elegant drops that followed, it’s all been a cosmic dance where sneakers are transformed into almost art-like entities. Join me as we journey through each Virgil Abloh x Jordan Brand collaboration, ranked from the ones that make you say “meh” to those that leave you starry-eyed!
When Virgil Abloh unveiled “The Ten” collection in 2017, he didn’t just redesign sneakers–he rewired how the entire industry thought about collaboration. Nowhere was that more felt than in his relationship with Jordan Brand, an ongoing partnership that produced some of the most culturally significant and absurd sneakers of the last decade.
From the iconic AJ1 “Chicago” that started it all to the quieter, more refined drops that followed, Virgil used the Jumpman silhouette as a canvas to deconstruct what a sneaker even is. Here’s every Virgil Abloh x Jordan Brand collaboration, ranked from worst to best.
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The “Canary Yellow” AJ1 is one of the more understated entries in the Off-White x Jordan Brand catalog. Built on the same deconstructed chassis as the “Chicago,” the yellow accents are subtle enough to separate it from the all-white “White” colorway without being too loud.
It didn’t generate the same demand as its siblings at the time of release. However, it has gained more appreciation in the years since. The signature Off-White details are all present: zip tie, exposed foam, deconstructed Swoosh, and the colorway holds up well on its own terms.
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The “Black/Varsity Royal” Low arrived in November 2021 alongside the “White/Varsity Red” as a two-colorway AJ2 drop. While both pairs helped bring renewed attention to the AJ2 silhouette, this colorway is the stronger of the two.
The black lizard-textured upper works well with the royal blue accents throughout. Additionally, the cracked and aged midsole finish gives it a worn-in look that fits the overall aesthetic.
For a silhouette that had spent years being overlooked, the Off-White treatment gave it a legitimate reason to exist again.
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Consequently, the “White” was released as a European exclusive in 2018, about a year after “The Ten.” It carries the same deconstructed details as the “Chicago” with the exposed foam, detached Swoosh, and zip tie. But the clean white palette puts more focus on the construction itself.
It is a quieter release than most in the collection, but an important one for understanding Abloh’s original vision.
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The AJ2 Low “White/Varsity Red” dropped in November 2021 and was among Virgil Abloh’s last completed projects. It references the original 1986 “White/Red” AJ2 colorway fairly directly.
The white leather upper with red piping and heel overlay stays close to the source material. Meanwhile, the Off-White details, zip tie, Helvetica text, and exposed foam are applied consistently with the rest of the collection.
The pre-yellowed midsole and cracked sidewalls give it a deliberately aged finish. Overall, it is a straightforward entry in the catalog that does exactly what it sets out to do.
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It is a more neutral colorway than most of the Off-White x Jordan Brand releases. As a result, it tends to be more versatile in terms of wearability.
The pre-yellowed outsole is consistent with the aged aesthetic Abloh applied to several other entries in the collection. It is not the flashiest release on this list, but it is a well-executed one.
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The deconstructed leather upper and semi-translucent TPU on the eyelets, wings, and heel panel give it a more stripped-back look than the standard AJ4. The monochromatic sail colorway is consistent throughout.
Upon release, it became one of the most sought-after women’s sneakers in the resale market. It also served as a sample during Abloh’s “Figures of Speech” exhibit at the Chicago Museum of Contemporary Art.
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The “Sail” AJ5 released on NBA All-Star Weekend 2020 and drew directly from the original 1990 Air Jordan 5 “Fire Red” as a reference point. Abloh had spoken publicly about his attachment to the AJ5 silhouette, describing it as one of the shoes he grew up most connected to.
The light grey synthetic upper features a translucent grid overlay, circular cutouts, and a pre-yellowed outsole. Together, those details give it a vintage feel that works well on the silhouette.
It is widely considered the stronger of the two Off-White AJ5 releases, and the resale market has reflected that consistently.
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The “UNC” released alongside the “Chicago” as part of “The Ten” in 2017 and applies the same deconstructed approach to a powder blue and white colorway. The UNC palette has a long history within Jordan Brand, which gives this release some additional context beyond the Off-White collaboration itself.
The exposed foam, semi-detached Swoosh, and zip tie are all present, as they are across the rest of the AJ1 entries in the collection. It is a less obvious choice than the “Chicago,” but it is just as well-constructed and has held its value in the resale market accordingly.
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The Off-White x Air Jordan 1 “Chicago” released as part of “The Ten” in 2017 and is widely regarded as the most significant sneaker collaboration of that decade. Abloh applied his deconstructed approach to the AJ1’s classic “Chicago” colorway, exposing internal construction details and adding Off-White branding throughout.
The semi-detached Swoosh, exposed foam tongue, zip tie, and “AIR” stamp on the midsole became defining visual elements that influenced the direction of sneaker collaborations for years afterward. Resale prices remain among the highest for any Jordan Brand release.
Nearly a decade later, it is still the standard against which other collabs are measured.
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