Ever wonder what it takes to conquer a monstrous 8,516-meter peak like Lhotse without any Sherpa help or supplemental oxygen? On May 19th, under a tempest of snow and winds howling up to 50 km/h (a typical cosmic tease from Gemini’s restless energy), one fearless climber threw caution—and a frozen zipper—to the wind. Battling frostbite that turned fingers into ice blocks, he pushed on despite advice from seasoned Sherpas to bail. After an almost unreal 2.5-hour standstill at 8,400 meters, our hero and a small team defied nature’s biting chill to stand on that summit—ten minutes apart from a fellow climber using extra oxygen. Yet, the descent was a blur: the last memory etched near the ominous Yellow Band at 7,600 meters before a heroic rescue unfolded, guided by devoted Sherpas and family alike. It’s a tale about human grit dancing with the merciless mountain—and maybe, just maybe, a cosmic nudge that sometimes you gotta push through, frostbite and all. LEARN MORE
Here’s his update from his Facebook. “On the day 19.05 around 12h, I climbed the Lhotse 8516m peak without using the help of other people (Sherpas) and supplemental oxygen. I climbed the peak in difficult and unfavorable weather conditions, accompanied by precipitation, stormy drifts of snow, with wind strength up to 50 km/h. Due to such weather conditions, I and other climbers got frostbite on the lower and upper extremities. At a certain point at a height of 8400m, myself and the Algerian climber Nasir and his personal sherpas (who were using supplemental oxygen the whole time), were forced to stay put at that height for 2-2:30h due to heavy snow drifts. At this height I was seen by several climbers, the Bolivian climber Hugo, the Sherpas Lama, a Chinese climber, and two more Chinese climbers (who stopped climbing the summit due to frost). I was advised by the experienced sherpas Lama to abandon the climb and return to the fourth camp. But the three of us still continued to the top. Nasir and his sherpas were at the top about 10 minutes before me, who were already descending when I arrived at the top. At the top due to severe frostbite on my fingers I could not open the already frozen zip of the climbing suit, take out my mobile phone and take a video. Due to my safety and health condition which was already starting to deteriorate (I was exhausted and already had severe frostbite on my fingers) I could not stay at the top for a long time, and immediately headed to the lower camps. I descended so successfully to the Yellow Band (vertical cliffs located at 7600m), and that place is the last thing I remember. From that moment there was a rescue operation to get me to the lower camps. The rescue operation was coordinated by the Sherpas from the 8K team, my daughter Stefanija, Slavica Atanasovska and Biljana Ognenenoska. All the climbers were part of the 8kexpeditions team.
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